Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
I was just sorting some used GB machins and I have multiple copies of the same stamp.
A fair few of the stamps have some residual gum from where they were removed from paper using something like "Stamplift" ( not by me I hasten to add ),some are completely clean and some have pencil mark / notations on the reverse.
I also must admit that in 60 years of collecting I have never bought an individual used stamp so I am not sure what is acceptable to a used stamp collector?
Also while I am thinking about it if the paper is a little "wrinkly" from the washing process is that a no no!
Best wishes,
Brian.
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I think everyone has their own standards about what is acceptable. Personally I don't get too fussed about a pencil notation on the back of a stamp. I will sometime soak a used stamp that has other residue on the back to clean it up.
For me most important things I check for are - blemishes, creases, thins, pulled/missing perfs, and presence of a reasonably light cancel. I don't use spacefillers. That way I know that if I've mounted a stamp in my collection it is sound, and I can spend my time/money chasing other stamps.
Given two acceptable (i.e. sound) used copies I will pick the one that has a better combination of centring and cancel.
Eric
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I forgot to mention - re wrinkly stamps.
Those I wouldn't include in my collection as is. However, I might take a crack at soaking and pressing them to bring them up to an acceptable appearance.
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My world-wide collection contains items from up to 50 years ago. I collect used (unused can be held as a place holder until I get a good used item). As I go through stamps for needs or upgrades I do examine the quality of what I have (driven by a lot of re-posting and organizing of sets). This results in many items with adhesions which I will attack and clean. The primary culprit here is multiple layers of hinge remainders. I do keep damaged items as place holders, but all stamps I review are cleaned and remounted. And, that is what I do with new acquisitions. But pencil marks do not fret me. One of my big bugbears is a dealer who does not clear used stamps of adhesions or hinge remainders. I find too high a percentage of damaged items in those cases.
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I have no issues with pencil marks on back of stamps. I do not even mention this as a fault if I am selling stamps.
Main issues with used stamps can be thins (most often a result of one trying to peel off hinges), creases, missing perforations or this one:
Transfer of envelope paint to the stamp, or other stains or discolorations. It is up to anyone's discretion what is acceptable to be added to one's collection. It depends on how rare the stamp is as well.
I would use your thread to ask if anyone knows of ways to clean up envelope paint transfers like in the above example. The paint was unstable and transferred to the stamp, but getting it off the stamp is a different matter.
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If I find used stamps with residual gum, hinge remnants, remains of envelope paper etc., I first check whether the printing ink may run in water. If it doesn't, I simply wash the stamps in warm (not hot!) water to remove the gunk, dry and press them between blotting paper. This also helps to detect faults, and it often works wonders with the general appearance from the front, too, in particular with older stamps. Stamps with water-sensitive ink can be saved with some skill if you just let them float on top of the bowl. Usual caveats apply for self-adhesives or older stamps with gum containing animal glue. But remember in any case, cleaning stamps is work! Don't expect the stamp dealers you are selling to or buying from to do it for you, it would drive buying prices down and selling prices up.
Some wrinkly stamps may have been washed in water that was too hot. Modern stamps are often printed on paper that is polymer ("plastic") coated, and some of these polymers shrink when heated. Another soak won't help any more.
As far as I know, there is no way to get rid of ink or dye from envelopes that has transferred to the backs of the stamps. If it has not stained the front of an otherwise undamaged stamp, I accept this as kind of a slightly lower grade, at least better than just a placeholder or as a case of lower priority when I look for upgrades/replacements. Pencil marks can be removed with a good quality eraser. Don't just use any old thing that's been left over from your school days ;-), get a new one.
Martin
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Something that has not yet been mentioned in connection with used stamps is foxing - i.e. brown spots that appear on improperly stored stamps. I believe this is a type of mold that, if left untreated, will continue to get worse. I have read that you might be able to reduce/eliminate foxing with a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide, but I have never tried this. Does anyone else have any experience in this area?
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I believe there was a discussion about foxing a few months ago. At any rate, this usually goes all the way through the paper, and does not only affect the back of the stamps. I've been told that it can be stopped, but not removed in an alkaline bath (some baking soda in water), since the mold thrives in an acidic environment. Peroxide may also bleach the printing inks and the dye in the paper (if present). A professional restoration effort may only be justified for very valuable items.
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Foxing, eh?
This'll keep you busy for awhile ...
https://stamporama.com/discboard/disc_main.php?action=20&id=12994
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
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I'm just catching up on some old discussions that I never got around to reading. My thought about colored marks left on the backs of stamps from airmail envelopes is that sometimes I actually like it. I collect primarily postally used stamps. With some countries usually all you can find are mint or CTO. Those colored marks indicate it was actually used for postage.
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Unlike Mint NH stamps, used stamps are ... well used. I don't really care about the condition of used stamps I acquire because they are ... ah... used.
Used stamps tell a story... which is why I collect used stamps ... the better the story, the more desirable the stamp.
If I have a blank space, any stamp in any condition will do until I find a better version to replace the initial acquisition.
When options are available, I look for the story first - cancellation; followed by the usual stuff - condition, centering, faults, fancy cancels, private perfs, color shades, etc.
Used stamps are attractive because they are used postally and many have lived through many owners who treated them differently (taped, glued, annotated, defaced, poorly stored, etc.) .... all part of their story.
Enjoy USED stamps for what they are and what they have been through -- some loved, some treated with indifference, and some just cast a side.
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Depends on my needs, or what I think of as needs, which have nothing to do with good, shelter, clothing, and sex!
I have usually tried to collect both mint and used copies of stamps, the latter, preferably, with SON (sock on the nose), readable CDS (circle date stamp) cancellations with the date corresponding with the period the stamps were in general use. I also look for well-centred stamps without visible damage. However...
Some stamps are simply unobtainable, perhaps because they were printed with an ink additive called unobtanium. In such cases, I will accept unreadable cancellations, partial CDS cancellations, poor centring, slightly pulled perf, hanging perfs, even a bit of wear and tear on the face if the stamp is very hard to find. I like freaks and oddities as well. I collect covers as well as stamps, and prefer covers with stamps in good condition, but that's not always possible. In fact, stamps on "adversity covers" — covers that were victims of plane crashes, ship sinkings, fires, etc. It's would be pointless to have a pristine crash cover, for example, unless it's used as evidence that the aircraft was not badly damaged. One of my most commercially valuable covers, from the torpedoing of a British freighter by a UI-boat in 1940, has no stamps at all because they were washed off the cover during salvage operations.
I've never had a problem with wrinkles. If a stamp has wrinkles (not creases), it can be soaked for a few minutes in warm water, blotted dry on paper towel, and slipped between the pages of a paperback book. A couple of heavy books on top of the paperback, left for a day or so, always helps to turn wrinkled stamps into perfectly flat stamps.
Bob
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My preference is for a clean back to stamps, pencil marks I can live with but find the number is sometimes incorrect or not for the catalogue I work from. Hinge remnants are ok so long as the stamp is soakable. Self adhesives I prefer with the envelope paper still attached, I mount or hinge them with a small border.
Counter to many folks I prefer a light circular cancel that does not detract from the design of the stamp. Like others I will keep a damaged stamp until I find a better copy, but marked with a pencilled X on the page.
Aniline ink stamps with hinge remnants get the damp cotton bud treatment then pressed between the pages of the local 'phone book with a couple of Scotts for weight.
Guess we all have our own preferences and collecting requirements, whatever works for the individual is the way to go.
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Good on Sheepshanks for mentioning stamps printed with aniline ink, which is water soluble ink. A few British and Canadian stamps, and no doubt many others, simply cannot be soaked in water. If they are soaked in water, chances are excellent that the image will simply disappear, leaving behind a rectangle of white paper with perforations. When in doubt, check a catalogue (like I failed to do, once!).
Bob
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Unless I am paying a premium for a used stamp, I do not really pay that much attention to such aspects like hinges (unless they interfere with a mount, pencil markings, stuck paper, etc. I will soak of hinges and stuck paper if I want to check a watermark. All my my stamps go into mounts.
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The front is MUCH more important, but it is easier to spot many faults by looking at the backs. I prefer a clean back. I’ve seen too many pencil marks that were done with such a heavy hand that they embossed the paper. Paper is fragile - why risk damaging it? Besides there are so many catalogs that the numbers are a bit useless for trading - especially if you’re trading internationally.
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"re: The backs of used stamps....
Something that has not yet been mentioned in connection with used stamps is foxing - i.e. brown spots that appear on improperly stored stamps. I believe this is a type of mold that, if left untreated, will continue to get worse. I have read that you might be able to reduce/eliminate foxing with a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide, but I have never tried this. Does anyone else have any experience in this area?"
"re: The backs of used stamps....
I believe there was a discussion about foxing a few months ago. At any rate, this usually goes all the way through the paper, and does not only affect the back of the stamps. I've been told that it can be stopped, but not removed in an alkaline bath (some baking soda in water), since the mold thrives in an acidic environment. Peroxide may also bleach the printing inks and the dye in the paper (if present). A professional restoration effort may only be justified for very valuable items."
I believe it was here : (ERNI A and ERNI B)
https://stamporama.com/discboard/disc_ma ...
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Hello,
I was just sorting some used GB machins and I have multiple copies of the same stamp.
A fair few of the stamps have some residual gum from where they were removed from paper using something like "Stamplift" ( not by me I hasten to add ),some are completely clean and some have pencil mark / notations on the reverse.
I also must admit that in 60 years of collecting I have never bought an individual used stamp so I am not sure what is acceptable to a used stamp collector?
Also while I am thinking about it if the paper is a little "wrinkly" from the washing process is that a no no!
Best wishes,
Brian.
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05:36:11pm
re: The backs of used stamps....
I think everyone has their own standards about what is acceptable. Personally I don't get too fussed about a pencil notation on the back of a stamp. I will sometime soak a used stamp that has other residue on the back to clean it up.
For me most important things I check for are - blemishes, creases, thins, pulled/missing perfs, and presence of a reasonably light cancel. I don't use spacefillers. That way I know that if I've mounted a stamp in my collection it is sound, and I can spend my time/money chasing other stamps.
Given two acceptable (i.e. sound) used copies I will pick the one that has a better combination of centring and cancel.
Eric
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05:37:31pm
re: The backs of used stamps....
I forgot to mention - re wrinkly stamps.
Those I wouldn't include in my collection as is. However, I might take a crack at soaking and pressing them to bring them up to an acceptable appearance.
Login to Like
this post
re: The backs of used stamps....
My world-wide collection contains items from up to 50 years ago. I collect used (unused can be held as a place holder until I get a good used item). As I go through stamps for needs or upgrades I do examine the quality of what I have (driven by a lot of re-posting and organizing of sets). This results in many items with adhesions which I will attack and clean. The primary culprit here is multiple layers of hinge remainders. I do keep damaged items as place holders, but all stamps I review are cleaned and remounted. And, that is what I do with new acquisitions. But pencil marks do not fret me. One of my big bugbears is a dealer who does not clear used stamps of adhesions or hinge remainders. I find too high a percentage of damaged items in those cases.
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re: The backs of used stamps....
I have no issues with pencil marks on back of stamps. I do not even mention this as a fault if I am selling stamps.
Main issues with used stamps can be thins (most often a result of one trying to peel off hinges), creases, missing perforations or this one:
Transfer of envelope paint to the stamp, or other stains or discolorations. It is up to anyone's discretion what is acceptable to be added to one's collection. It depends on how rare the stamp is as well.
I would use your thread to ask if anyone knows of ways to clean up envelope paint transfers like in the above example. The paint was unstable and transferred to the stamp, but getting it off the stamp is a different matter.
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03:17:17am
re: The backs of used stamps....
If I find used stamps with residual gum, hinge remnants, remains of envelope paper etc., I first check whether the printing ink may run in water. If it doesn't, I simply wash the stamps in warm (not hot!) water to remove the gunk, dry and press them between blotting paper. This also helps to detect faults, and it often works wonders with the general appearance from the front, too, in particular with older stamps. Stamps with water-sensitive ink can be saved with some skill if you just let them float on top of the bowl. Usual caveats apply for self-adhesives or older stamps with gum containing animal glue. But remember in any case, cleaning stamps is work! Don't expect the stamp dealers you are selling to or buying from to do it for you, it would drive buying prices down and selling prices up.
Some wrinkly stamps may have been washed in water that was too hot. Modern stamps are often printed on paper that is polymer ("plastic") coated, and some of these polymers shrink when heated. Another soak won't help any more.
As far as I know, there is no way to get rid of ink or dye from envelopes that has transferred to the backs of the stamps. If it has not stained the front of an otherwise undamaged stamp, I accept this as kind of a slightly lower grade, at least better than just a placeholder or as a case of lower priority when I look for upgrades/replacements. Pencil marks can be removed with a good quality eraser. Don't just use any old thing that's been left over from your school days ;-), get a new one.
Martin
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07:03:16am
re: The backs of used stamps....
Something that has not yet been mentioned in connection with used stamps is foxing - i.e. brown spots that appear on improperly stored stamps. I believe this is a type of mold that, if left untreated, will continue to get worse. I have read that you might be able to reduce/eliminate foxing with a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide, but I have never tried this. Does anyone else have any experience in this area?
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09:04:59am
re: The backs of used stamps....
I believe there was a discussion about foxing a few months ago. At any rate, this usually goes all the way through the paper, and does not only affect the back of the stamps. I've been told that it can be stopped, but not removed in an alkaline bath (some baking soda in water), since the mold thrives in an acidic environment. Peroxide may also bleach the printing inks and the dye in the paper (if present). A professional restoration effort may only be justified for very valuable items.
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re: The backs of used stamps....
Foxing, eh?
This'll keep you busy for awhile ...
https://stamporama.com/discboard/disc_main.php?action=20&id=12994
Cheers,
/s/ ikeyPikey
Login to Like
this post
re: The backs of used stamps....
I'm just catching up on some old discussions that I never got around to reading. My thought about colored marks left on the backs of stamps from airmail envelopes is that sometimes I actually like it. I collect primarily postally used stamps. With some countries usually all you can find are mint or CTO. Those colored marks indicate it was actually used for postage.
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Approvals
re: The backs of used stamps....
Unlike Mint NH stamps, used stamps are ... well used. I don't really care about the condition of used stamps I acquire because they are ... ah... used.
Used stamps tell a story... which is why I collect used stamps ... the better the story, the more desirable the stamp.
If I have a blank space, any stamp in any condition will do until I find a better version to replace the initial acquisition.
When options are available, I look for the story first - cancellation; followed by the usual stuff - condition, centering, faults, fancy cancels, private perfs, color shades, etc.
Used stamps are attractive because they are used postally and many have lived through many owners who treated them differently (taped, glued, annotated, defaced, poorly stored, etc.) .... all part of their story.
Enjoy USED stamps for what they are and what they have been through -- some loved, some treated with indifference, and some just cast a side.
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re: The backs of used stamps....
Depends on my needs, or what I think of as needs, which have nothing to do with good, shelter, clothing, and sex!
I have usually tried to collect both mint and used copies of stamps, the latter, preferably, with SON (sock on the nose), readable CDS (circle date stamp) cancellations with the date corresponding with the period the stamps were in general use. I also look for well-centred stamps without visible damage. However...
Some stamps are simply unobtainable, perhaps because they were printed with an ink additive called unobtanium. In such cases, I will accept unreadable cancellations, partial CDS cancellations, poor centring, slightly pulled perf, hanging perfs, even a bit of wear and tear on the face if the stamp is very hard to find. I like freaks and oddities as well. I collect covers as well as stamps, and prefer covers with stamps in good condition, but that's not always possible. In fact, stamps on "adversity covers" — covers that were victims of plane crashes, ship sinkings, fires, etc. It's would be pointless to have a pristine crash cover, for example, unless it's used as evidence that the aircraft was not badly damaged. One of my most commercially valuable covers, from the torpedoing of a British freighter by a UI-boat in 1940, has no stamps at all because they were washed off the cover during salvage operations.
I've never had a problem with wrinkles. If a stamp has wrinkles (not creases), it can be soaked for a few minutes in warm water, blotted dry on paper towel, and slipped between the pages of a paperback book. A couple of heavy books on top of the paperback, left for a day or so, always helps to turn wrinkled stamps into perfectly flat stamps.
Bob
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this post
Approvals
re: The backs of used stamps....
My preference is for a clean back to stamps, pencil marks I can live with but find the number is sometimes incorrect or not for the catalogue I work from. Hinge remnants are ok so long as the stamp is soakable. Self adhesives I prefer with the envelope paper still attached, I mount or hinge them with a small border.
Counter to many folks I prefer a light circular cancel that does not detract from the design of the stamp. Like others I will keep a damaged stamp until I find a better copy, but marked with a pencilled X on the page.
Aniline ink stamps with hinge remnants get the damp cotton bud treatment then pressed between the pages of the local 'phone book with a couple of Scotts for weight.
Guess we all have our own preferences and collecting requirements, whatever works for the individual is the way to go.
1 Member
likes this post.
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re: The backs of used stamps....
Good on Sheepshanks for mentioning stamps printed with aniline ink, which is water soluble ink. A few British and Canadian stamps, and no doubt many others, simply cannot be soaked in water. If they are soaked in water, chances are excellent that the image will simply disappear, leaving behind a rectangle of white paper with perforations. When in doubt, check a catalogue (like I failed to do, once!).
Bob
Login to Like
this post
re: The backs of used stamps....
Unless I am paying a premium for a used stamp, I do not really pay that much attention to such aspects like hinges (unless they interfere with a mount, pencil markings, stuck paper, etc. I will soak of hinges and stuck paper if I want to check a watermark. All my my stamps go into mounts.
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re: The backs of used stamps....
The front is MUCH more important, but it is easier to spot many faults by looking at the backs. I prefer a clean back. I’ve seen too many pencil marks that were done with such a heavy hand that they embossed the paper. Paper is fragile - why risk damaging it? Besides there are so many catalogs that the numbers are a bit useless for trading - especially if you’re trading internationally.
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re: The backs of used stamps....
"re: The backs of used stamps....
Something that has not yet been mentioned in connection with used stamps is foxing - i.e. brown spots that appear on improperly stored stamps. I believe this is a type of mold that, if left untreated, will continue to get worse. I have read that you might be able to reduce/eliminate foxing with a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide, but I have never tried this. Does anyone else have any experience in this area?"
"re: The backs of used stamps....
I believe there was a discussion about foxing a few months ago. At any rate, this usually goes all the way through the paper, and does not only affect the back of the stamps. I've been told that it can be stopped, but not removed in an alkaline bath (some baking soda in water), since the mold thrives in an acidic environment. Peroxide may also bleach the printing inks and the dye in the paper (if present). A professional restoration effort may only be justified for very valuable items."
I believe it was here : (ERNI A and ERNI B)
https://stamporama.com/discboard/disc_ma ...
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